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IEET > Life > Innovation > Vision > Bioculture > Contributors > Travis James Leland

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The InVitro Meat Debate


Travis James Leland
Travis James Leland
Ethical Technology

Posted: May 7, 2012

Why doesn’t everyone get excited about transhumanism? Why aren’t all people fascinated by augmented and virtual reality, radical life-extension, brain-uploading, and The Singularity? This essay is the first in a series of articles, entitled “The Casual Transhuman” - it will examine h+ topics from the layman’s perspective and give suggestions on how transhumanists can spread their ideas without looking like crackpots to the world-at-large.

A few months ago, I was having dinner with some friends at a local diner. The topic of conversation turned to transhumanism and related fields of study. Our talk went into the wee hours of the morning, and we were quite animated in our discussion of life-extension, posthuman economics, religion and so forth. The three of us were like peas in the proverbial pod, but my wife sat quietly for most of the time, sipping her tea and staying as far away from the conversation as possible. She has always had an interest in science, but once we start getting into futurism or H+ topics, she shuts down. When I come home talking about some new concept for human/computer interface, augmented reality, in-vitro meat, etc., she nods her head, saying “uh huh” at every pause in my speech, and generally humoring me as much as possible before changing the subject to something practical.

Why is that?  She is certainly intelligent enough to understand these things. Her comprehension is not in question.

I have come to the conclusion that she doesn’t really think these things are truly possible. And that, if they are, the scientific advances we make are neither desirable nor practical.  I ask for her thoughts on in-vitro meat and she shrugs her shoulders, saying “Nobody will eat it because it’s made in a lab. People would be too afraid of it.” Having read the article by Hank Pellissier titled Nine Ways In-Vitro Meat Will Change Our Lives I gave her examples of how it would be cheaper, healthier, even tastier, she still seemed to believe that nobody would be interested because they do not like change.

This is one of the main problems I see with the H+ “community.” Transhumanists on the “inside,” the admitted science nerds and computer geeks and whatnot, are up to date on current research into these matters. The public, however, is not. The cubicle cowboy who uses the web for email, sports headlines and the occasional escapist pornography has no idea what the majority of the topics of interest to the H+ people are. They could not care less that somebody in a white coat is growing filet mignon in a petri dish. And if they read a short article about it on, say, Reuters, they would likely read the headline, skim the article and go straight to the comments where they will see an assortment of gems like the following…

“Up Next….How to deal with people who have eaten in-vitro meat and have turned into flesh eating ZOMBIES!!!!” - benjamin81882

“Great, but no animals lives will be saved. That’s a completely ridiculous and false statement. The animals just won’t be born in the first place. Vegans and veggies should be happy about this though as now more land can be dedicated to exploiting bees for fruits and vegetables and they can have their meat and eat it too. Of course, true vegans will still have to grow their own fruits and veggies and let nature take its course and no test tube meat for you as you cannot exploit animals (which includes humans) for food. LOL.” - Peter666

And over at the Huffington Post comes one comment to which I give extra points for creativity…

“I thought they already had this with the McRib…yum yum” - ewalter899

Aside from this, there are many comparisons to Soylent Green and “Frankenburger” and other frightening ideas. So how does the growing community of transhumanists spread the word that there is absolutely NOTHING scary about this innovation? I have spoken to people who were using the “yuck” factor as a reason to avoid the shmeat. When I tell them (half-jokingly) to compare the slaughterhouse to a clean and sterile laboratory and then tell me which is yucky, they laugh it off and change the subject, like my wife does.

Which leads me to the following thought. Is there are uncanny valley of sorts at play here? To the average person, is lab-grown meat not real meat? Can it only be considered beef if it actually came from a slaughtered cow? It looks like meat, smells like meat, tastes like meat - but it isn’t meat? Even though the vast majority of people  no longer need to hunt for their meals, is there still some embedded need to connect with our food on a primal level? We know that this steak was once alive, and now it is not and it sustains us, so we are still at the top of the food chain. Is that a comforting thought to the carnivorous humans among us? To this I say, go out into the jungles of Africa with no weapons or tools and see how long you last. We have never been the top of any food chain. We are not the masters over most animals - only those our ancestors domesticated and bred.

So how to change this perception that lab meat is creepy or wrong or ungodly? Well first, the media would have to stop referring to the product as “Frankenfood.” I see that in nearly every article I’ve read on the subject. It doesn’t exactly evoke a Pavlovian response from me, and I doubt it does to most people. In fact, “in-vitro meat,” the technical term for this product, isn’t so comforting either. My wife says the term makes her think of babies and that we don’t want to eat babies. There is an imitation crab meat product on the shelves called Krab and vegetarian meat-substitutes are already labeled Chik’n.  In order for people to be less afraid of the product, they need to have a catchy name to call it that is also appetizing and positive. People seem to like seeing that their tuna is “dolphin safe” and that their chicken is “free-range,” meaning that the food company has taken steps to insure that the final product was prepared in a humane way with as little suffering to the animals as possible.  So I propose that IVM be given a similar moniker, like “No-Kill Meat.” Nothing about labs, test tubes or petri dishes, and there is the satisfaction of knowing that this meat did not require the death of an animal. It may not be the best, but it sure beats Frankenburger.

People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals has given their approval of this research, and that could help the growing population of vegetarians to spread the word about it. I know some people who believe that PETA does more harm than good but to the majority of people, they are the voice of vegetarianism. Other environmental agencies will focus on the reduction in greenhouse gas emissions and other ecological benefits to IVM. Getting the vegetarians and the green thinkers on our side, promoting IVM will be sure to bring over a lot of consumers.

When the product finally hits the shelves, perhaps we could invite our friends and neighbors to a barbecue and only tell them afterwards that their hot dogs and hamburgers were in-vitro. We could support any restaurants that serve IVM by patronizing them frequently (please no KFC jokes, I’m being serious here).  In other words, you attract more flies with honey than with vinegar. Any form of positive reinforcement is better than negative acts like attacking slaughterhouses and protesting in front of a McDonald’s. That would only serve to frighten away people who might have been vaguely interested. Perhaps some intrepid entrepreneur could open a restaurant that serves popular dishes in which the meat has been entirely replaced with IVM.

And now I open the floor to all of you. In-vitro meat is on its way, and soon. It can be met with applause and excitement, or with derision and scorn. It is up to those of us who believe that this product will fundamentally change the way we produce and consume our food to spread the word about it. How would you make in-vitro meat more…appetizing…to the common consumer?


Travis James Leland is a science-fiction writer and poet, currently working on a novel entitled "Singular," about a young man who becomes the world's first true posthuman. He lives in Llano, California with his wife and son. His Twitter is @TJL2080.
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COMMENTS


Hi Travis,

I enjoyed your article.

I was glad to see that you too identify the conceptual frustration of the “in between” space that the product presents. I’m still contemplating your reference to the uncanny valley. This is how I’ve thought about it (some writing I’ve done but not yet published):

““Artificial meat” is, at present, philosophically ambiguous. Philosophically, artificial meat represents a new conceptual space; it is not a part of a whole animal, nor is it wholly synthetic. It is akin to an apple growing on a robotic tree: born of machine, divorced from context and history. Sociologists, philosophers and artists have experimented with forming concepts of this new thing. One apprehension aims at reconciling the meat’s concurrent identification with the living and non-living, referring to it as the “semi-living”. However, despite many ideas having been put forth, the most salient features of this unique conceptual space have not yet been identified. Or, as Neil Stephens attests “we are still at a point at which the definition or categorization of in vitro meat – what it is – remains unclear” (Stephens, 2010). Resolving philosophical ambiguity could, for those concerned with this kind of identification, prevent product uncertainty. A group of artists, the Tissue Culture and Art Project, is experimenting towards a concept of artificial meat, today.” 

There is a new book you may be interested in that addresses this topic, it’s called “The Taste of Tomorrow: Dispatches From the Future of Food”, by Josh Schonwald.

It appears to deal a good deal with this topic, though I haven’t read it yet. From a Maclean’s article on it:

“In his book, he describes his meeting with Kara Nielsen, a “food trendologist” who tries to pinpoint the next big thing. She explains one theory of how a food trend hits: first, it appears at a handful of ethnic or upscale restaurants, where chefs and diners are willing to experiment. Then it pops up on the Food Network and in specialty shops, before it starts going mainstream, infiltrating chains and retail stores. Then women’s magazines get hold of it, and finally, it’s on the menu at fast food restaurants and on grocery store shelves.”

-clearly, however, artificial meat adoption is a much more complex an issue. However, I think identification of a “high society” product is important, as well as presence in women’s food magazines.

It also discusses the rising trend of fear oriented at biotechnology applied to food, or, “a rising tide of food-specific neo-Luddism”, that insists that food and technology shouldn’t mix.

(http://www2.macleans.ca/2012/04/20/tomorrows-food/#more-253127)

It is a topic I am quite interested in. In case you haven’t seen it, here is my take on adoption factors: http://ieet.org/index.php/IEET/more/olson20120229





“How would you make in-vitro meat more…appetizing…to the common consumer?”

Make it cost a fraction of traditional meat. Many would definitely try it - and then the word will spread fast. “Ehy, you know, it’s not bad! ...and, imagine, I bought 10 pounds of beef for 1.99$”

That’s the only way. Mere cultural operations would only create a niche for selective consumers. The masses follow only money, and cheap stuff.





I get similar responses from people.

I try to explain to them that this is “deaf, dumb, and blind meat” - it’s still “alive”, it’s just as “real” as slaughtered meat - it is, after all, grown from living animal cells, just as an animal would be grown from living cells inside a womb.

The difference is that this meat is muscle cells only (and hopefully some fat for proper marbling, etc.) - it doesn’t have a nervous system, so it cannot see, it cannot hear, it cannot feel pain at any stage of it’s existence.

It is essentially, “blind, deaf, and dumb” meat. Perfect for human consumption.

Yeah.

I tried explaining it that way, and I still get the same responses from people, so I think there is some kind of uncanny valley going on.





The big issue with making IVM a reality in daily life is the status-quo. Consumers buy what is made available to them at the cheapest price with the most convenience. The best way to make IVM work is to go directly to the meat industry, show them how the switch can happen quickly, without them loosing market share. Otherwise IVM may loose the battle and be postponed or forgotten, bought up and locked up like patents to electric vehicles. The documentary Radio Wars explains this battle between old and new technologies the best I have seen.





IMHO, your article smacks of equal parts arrogance and ignorance, with a good dollop of true believer thrown in for good measure. Implicit in your comments about your wife is the notion that ‘if only people were intelligent enough, they would see transhumanism as the wonderful thing that it truly is.” As a professional neurobiologist for nearly 30 years, and a professional neuroethicist for the past 8, I consider myself fully conversant with all of the science, arguments, pronouncements and aspirations of transhumanists. I am happy to grant you the autonomy to pursue your vision, but I have no interest in pursuing it myself. My gentle suggestion would be to expend less effort in trying to convince the rest of us that your transhumanism-as-religion is the best thing in the known universe and a bit more time trying - and I mean really trying - to understand the motivations, concerns, and aspirations for eudaimonia that informed non-believers such as myself might have.





It’s clearly hard to anticipate transhuman or posthuman values. But unless we’re naive enough to believe that the early twenty-first century was when moral agents finally got things just about right, then transhumans and posthumans will presumably find some of today’s norms abhorrent - just as we find abhorrent the virulent racism, homophobia, sexism and xenophobia of previous generations. So what seemingly innocuous behaviours that we practise today are possible candidates? Granted, maybe what will seem most offensive is seemingly harmless stuff none of us have ever considered. But alternatively, flash forward a few decades to an era when gourmet in vitro meat products have displaced factory-farming and slaughterhouses - and when advances in philosophical ethics and in neuroscanning technology have put the comparative study of suffering and sentience on a more rigorous basis. How will posterity view the systematic abuse and killing of sentient beings from other species, not because they have harmed humans, or because they represent any kind of threat, but simply because humans like the taste of their flesh? We are talking here about beings whose sentience, intelligence and capacity to suffer ranges from that of human infants to prelinguistic human toddlers (cf. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0003347209003571 ).

I know quite a few people who say they recognise that what we’re doing is ethically indefensible, and yet who continue to buy and eat meat products. But I can foresee a day when condoning or confessing to animal abuse will seem as profoundly shocking as condoning or confessing to human child abuse today: a parallel that is far closer than one’s pre-Darwinian intuitions now find credible.
(cf. “moral dumfounding”: http://www.nd.edu/~wcarbona/Haidt 2001.pdf ) 





@Peter B. Reiner: You obviously were not reading the article very closely if you think that the author was implying those uninterested in transhumanism are less intelligent. He explicitly stated that the issue is not intelligence: “She is certainly intelligent enough to understand these things. Her comprehension is not in question.” Seems like you’re unloading baggage from previous encounters and painting him with that stereotypical brush.

As for IVM, I think we can draw parallels to history. For instance, high fructose corn syrup. One can imagine similar confusion from the unfamiliar layman: What is it? Corn? Sugar? Synthetic chemicals? It’s unnatural and I’ll have no part in it!

...And yet the stuff has become so cheap that it pervades most of what we eat. I don’t think a similar trajectory for IVM is all that unlikely. Certain brands will explicitly tout their transition to IVM and play up the environmental/ethical/health/whatever benefits, while others will hedge against widespread irrational conservatism and just quietly phase it into their production process, once the economics demand it. Most will simply go on as if nothing’s changed, as blissfully unaware of what went into their burger as their Pop Tarts.





As the mainstream media begins reporting on IVM more and more, this is sure to become the dinner table debate of the next decade, only partly because of the widespread implications — mostly because of the fun in watching the ‘yuck’ that it’s sure to evoke. Before it even hits the shelves, entrepreneurs will begin sourcing it themselves for their publicity-driven restaurants in every major city. And as it becomes widely available (under niche brands), many of us will either conduct (or become unwilling subjects in) backyard social experiments. Hundreds of thousands or even millions of people might sample IVM initially, but the real shift will come (and this is where SHaGGZ nailed it) the very moment that McDonalds deems it economically advantageous and quietly, quietly begins serving it to the 68 million people they feed everyday (http://www.mcdonalds.com/us/en/our_story.html).

I have no doubt that some fast food chains will appeal to the sentimentalists and will be handsomely rewarded by serving “only REAL meat,” but we’re only one pandemic away from correcting factory-farming.





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